Mountain Elgon National Park

ocated on the Uganda-Kenya border, Mt Elgon is an extinct volcano that first erupted around 24 million years ago. It is the oldest and largest solitary, volcanic mountain in East Africa with the largest volcanic base in the world measuring 50 km by 80 km. The higher slopes of the mountain are protected by National Parks in Uganda and Kenya, creating an extensive trans-boundary conservation area which has been declared a UNESCO Man & Biosphere Reserve.

Mt Elgon was once Africa’s highest mountain, far exceeding Kilimanjaro’s current 5,895m but millennia of erosion have reduced its height to 4,321m, relegating it to the 4th highest peak in East Africa and 8th on the continent.

The tallest peak is the 4,321m Wagagai, followed by Sudek (4,303m), Koitobos (4,222m) and Mubiyi (4,210m). At 4,050m is Jackson’s Pool. Explorer Frederick Jackson was in 1889 the first European to climb Mount Elgon. There are three trails to the peaks: The Sasa, Sipi and Piswa trails.

VEGETATION

Vegetation is dictated by altitude and rainfall with the lower slopes covered in dense forest and regenerating forests. Common tree species between 1,500 and 2,500m are olive, Elgon teak and many more. The zone changes to mixed bamboo at 2,500-3,000m. Between 3,000-3500m, the vegetation changes to giant heather and grassy blonde tussock grass and everlasting flowers.

The moorland or Afro-alpine zone (3,500-4,321m) contains Senecio elgonensis, Erica tree, giant lobelias, mantle tussocks (archimilla elgonesis), pink and white everlasting flowers.

The summit of the mountain is vegetated by rare Afro-montane species that include giant forms of lobelia and groundsel.

Wildlife

Creatures in the park include: Rock and tree hyraxes, elephant, buffalo, Defassa Waterbuck, Ooribi, Bushbuck, Duiker, Forest hog, Bush pig, Leopard, Civet, Serval cats, Spotted hyena, Aardvark and several rodent species. Others are Red tailed, vervet, De Brazza’s and Blue monkeys; duiker and tree squirrel. Most of the animals are not easily seen apart from monkeys.

green Tinkerbird and Alpine Chat are found in Mt Elgon.

Birding

Mount Elgon National Park is an excellent location for birdwatching. It is home to numerous bird species, including both endemic and migratory varieties.

Birding can be combined with hiking, nature walks, and visits to Sipi Falls

The park’s diverse vegetation, ranging from wet montane forests to Afro-alpine moorlands, supports a wide array of wildlife including birds.

Out of the over 300 birds found in Mt Elgon, 40 are restricted range species while 56 of the 87 Afro tropical highland biome species like the Moorland Francolin,

Among those limited to mountains in eastern Uganda are the Black-shouldered Kite and Tacazze Sunbird. Mount Elgon is one of the few places in Uganda where the endangered Lammergeyer can be seen.

The Kapkwai Forest Exploration Center and the surrounding areas, especially along trails to Cheptui Falls, are prime birding locations.

Mt Elgon National Park bird list:

Source: eBird

NATURE WALKS

Mt Elgon offers hikes ranging from a few hours to full days that can be utilised for birding.

A full-day nature hike leads from Budadiri to the Mudange cliffs, known as the Walls of Death, at the boundary of the park.

The Nabuyonga Trail is a 5km loop with birding, fauna and flora. Viewpoints overlook Mbale town, Lakes Kyoga, Bisina and Salisbara, and the rugged mountains in Karamoja region.

The Forest Exploration Centre at Kapkwai, doubles as an educational centre for schools and the trailhead for climbers using the Sipi trail to the caldera. Circuits of between 3-7km allow visitors visit caves, waterfalls, escarpments and viewpoints.

Mt Elgon has many good viewing points like the Wanale cliff which overlooks Mbale town and also offers opportunities for paragliding over Mbale town.

The top of the Sironko Valley in Budadiri commands views of the montane forest and caldera peaks. In Kapchorwa, outside the park, Tewei Hill at dawn enables visitors to see and photograph the sunrise across the vast Karamoja plains. King Chemonges Kingo of the Sabiny used to meet s his subjects at Tewei Hill.

SIPI FALLS

Location:

276 km from Kampala via Mbale.

Air: 231.09 km (143.59 mi) North East of Kampala.

97 km from Nyero via Mbale – Soroti /Mbale-Moroto Road

Coordinates: 1.3322726, 34.3884945

The northern and eastern slopes of Mt Elgon have massive basalt cliffs, over which the mountain’s rivers plunge as beautiful waterfalls.

The most spectacular of these are the three waterfalls at Sipi. The most photographed of the three is the water fall at the bottom of the chain which is 100 metres. The second known as Simba, plunges 69m over a cave while the third – Ngasire, gushes 87metres down.

Abseiling: This sport is done at the last falls.

Sport fishing: This is done above Ngasire waterfall. Common fish is the rainbow trout.

Rock climbing: There are 14 climbs requiring various levels of rock scaling techniques.

Mountain biking

The Mountain biking trail takes 1.5 hours and provides views of various waterfalls and the Karamoja plains.

People and culture – The Sabiny

The Sabiny, also known as the Sebei live on the eastern slopes of Mount Elgon. Their territory borders western Kenya, a region with more than six million Kalenjin who are a large ethnic group to which the Sebei belong. The Sabiny speak Kupsabiny, a Kalenjin language spoken by other smaller groups of Kalenjin stock who are collectively are referred to as the ‘Sabaots. The Sabiny, like their Bagisu counterparts grow mostly Arabica coffee and have a reputation for producing some of the finest washed Arabica Coffee in the region. A visit to the community around Sipi gives you a chance to learn and participate in coffee processing from picking, drying, roasting, grinding and up into your cap.

CLIMBING ELGON USING SASA TRAIL

Location: Budadiri

261 km from Kampala via Mbale.

Air: 217.04 km (134.86 mi) East North East (ENE) of Kampala.

34 km from Sipi via Mbale-Moroto Road.

Coordinates: 1.1701557, 34.3331552

Set off from Budadiri to sleep at Mude Cave Camp (3,500 m).

The trail goes through the community to the perimeter of the national park. The first challenge is the intimidating Mudange cliffs (2,290 m) known as the “Wall of Death”. From the cliff the gentle hike takes you to Sasa River Camp (2,900 m) through regenerating forest. After lunch continue to Sasa Patrol Hut (3,300 m) where you will register and continue through the heathland zone which is inclined to the caldera and has a lot of giant lobelia, everlasting flowers and several species of lichen. Rest for a night at Mude Cave Camp (3,500 m). Mude has spectacular sunsets/sunrises.

Mude to Wagagai Peak (4,321 m)

Wake up before sunrise and head for the summit through the alpine zone to reach the lip of the largest mountain caldera in the world. Enjoy Jackson’s Pool (4,050 m) and admire Jackson’s Table, a geological formation, and Jackson’s Peak (4,165 m). Pass around Jackson’s Peak and traverse the ridge of the caldera heading east towards Wagagai Peak. On the way, you will have spectacular views of the massive caldera and see various lakes and the Suam gorge. On a clear day, you can even see Mount Kenya in the distance. Continue to Wagagai Peak (4,321 m) which is the highest point of the calderas ridge.

After summiting, go back to Mude. After lunch, pack up your stuff and slop down to Sasa River camp for a night.

Sasa river camp to the trailhead

After breakfast, begin the agonizing steep descent down to UWA’s Budadiri office and get the diploma certifying that you have summited Wagagai Peak.

Mountain Elgon National Park

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